Thursday, December 24, 2009

Injera-inspired Ethiopian Crepe

I wanted to experiment with an unusual crepe for the holidays, and noticed that injera,the Ethiopian flatbread made with teff, would be fun to try. I read the recipe and decided to do a few modifications because I didn't have any teff. A recipe online mentioned using a cup of regular buttermilk pancake mix and buckwheat mix in equal proportion with water to thin it out. I didn't have the buckwheat flour, so I substituted with almond flour.

The process of making Injera requires fermentation, about three days, and I didn't have that either, so I made the batter immediately, hoping for the best! The challenge of making injera is thinning out the batter so it will bubble all over, stopping the frying midway and putting the crepe in the oven to finish cooking - about 1 minute - so that the crepe becomes spongey, not fried. I changed that too, deciding to broil the top for a minute instead.

My boys came over, so they ate these without any filling - just gobbled them down. But, I saved one and filled it with sliced beef from the deli, and some vegetables - with Turkish Shawarma seasoning. Shawarma is a middle-eastern sandwich, like a gyro, and anything can go in them. So, that is ultimately what I got, an injera-inspired Ethiopian Crepe with Turkish spices.

This is how it looked, for lunch.

I'll go to Marlene's for teff and buckwheat flour, so I can pull all of this off more authentically. But, for now, I'll include the proceedures here, because when I get time this will be my next experiment. (The cooking process here is a little different):

Ingredients

  • 1 1/2 cups ground teff
  • 2 cups water
  • salt, to taste
  • vegetable oil, for the skillet

Directions

  1. Mix ground teff with the water and let stand in a bowl covered with a dish towel at room temperature until it bubbles and has turned sour; This may take as long as 3 days, although I had success with an overnight fermentation; The fermenting mixture should be the consistency of a very thin pancake batter.
  2. Stir in the salt, a little at a time, until you can barely detect its taste.
  3. Lightly oil an 8 or 9 inch skillet (or a larger one if you like); Heat over medium heat.
  4. Pour in enough batter to cover the bottom of the skillet; About 1/4 cup will make a thin pancake covering the surface of an 8 inch skillet if you spread the batter around immediately by turning and rotating the skillet in the air; This is the classic French method for very thin crepes; Injera is not supposed to be paper thin so you should use a bit more batter than you would for crepes, but less than you would for a flapjack pancakes.
  5. Cook briefly, until holes form in the injera and the edges lift from the pan; Do not let it brown, and don't flip it over as it is only supposed to be cooked on one side.
  6. Remove and let cool. Place plastic wrap or foil between successive pieces so they don't stick together.
  7. To serve, lay one injera on a plate and ladle your chosen dishes on top (e.g., a lovely doro wat or alicha). Serve additional injera on the side. Guests can be instructed to eat their meal without utensils, instead using the injera to scoop up their food.

Friday, December 18, 2009

Of Greek Coffee, Couscous and Octopi

Earlier in the week my three sons came over, spending part of their afternoon peeking in the refrigerator and pushing things around in the pantry. They were hungry. They ate the rest of my Almond Biscotti and other cookies.

I made English muffins and orange marmalade earlier in the morning, so I fed them this. The marmalade, about 2 pints, is great on top of yogurt, with a few banana slices. Oranges were on sale - buy one bag, get another free, so I thought marmalade!

Then I made Asian Soup - a Thai base with vegetables, noodles, bite-size octopi, and other fish. George packed this soup in his lunch.
While the soup was cooking I pulled out left-over Moroccan Tagine - Kesksou Tfaia - couscous with meat - that had simmered for hours the day before. It results in a reduction sauce that is wonderful, and the aroma from all the spices is heavenly. Coriander, cinnamon, ginger, cumin, and currants. However, I didn't photograph it, it was eaten and packed in lunches, and gone before I could think to photograph it. (Note to self: Bulk whole coriander is sold at the Hong Kong market.)

My next project: Greek Coffee. I want to order the coffee and the briki online, and experiment. I tried it with a latte pitcher and Turkish coffee, and the foam was beautiful but short-lived. With a little sugar, it was intense and strong. In Greece it is sipped, or slurped, and served with a glass of water. In the 18th century, it was customary for young men, seeking a girl’s hand in marriage, to be served a cup of coffee by her family. This was not simply a symbol of the host’s hospitality - if the coffee was sweet, the suitor had every reason to be pleased; if bitter, the young man would rise politely, say thank you for the conversation, and never be seen again. (Flickr Photo: Ελληνικό καφενείο στα Βουρλά - Greek coffee at Urla-Minor Asia by AntonisP)

Friday, December 11, 2009

Torta Soffice de Mele ~ Light Apple Cake

When I was reading 'Tuscany The Beautiful Cookbook' by Lorenza de Medici I noticed a photograph of a beautiful cake covered with thin apple slices. I knew I wanted to make it, if for no better reason than to photograph the ripples the apples make when they are baked. They reminded me of the many beautiful wave patterns we've seen underwater when paddling upstream!

The cake is very simple to make, however I adapted ingredients to make it a little more moist and flavorful (yes, just reading ingredients, I could tell that my recipe was going to be more of a cake than a dry tort.) I'll post my recipe here, as this is a cake that I'll definitely make again because it is so exquisite.

Mix the following ingredients together in a blender or food processor, adding flour just 1/3 of a cup at a time, to keep the batter smooth and creamy:

2 cups flour
2/3 cup sugar
3 eggs
2/3 cup melted butter
grated zest of one lemon

1 tsp fresh-grated nutmeg
1 tsp baking powder

1/3 cup half'n'half


Butter and flour a 9 inch springform pan, and smooth the batter out to sides.
Add one can of Solo Apricot Filling over the top, spreading thin and to the edges.
Place exceedingly thin slices of peeled apple on top of the apricot paste, making a pattern. I used two apples, extra crisp and sweet. I sprayed the top with olive oil and a sprinkling of raw sugar.

Bake at 350 for about an hour. Place the cake under the broiler to highlight the light brown edges of the apples. Let cool, and push the cake out of the pan very carefully.


This cake is best served warm right out of the oven - the apple and apricot aroma is strongest then, and the flavor of the butter and cream are enhanced.

I served very small portions of this cake with some home-made yogurt at our Devotional Meeting. Nice, with a cup of decaf green tea.

Apple Pie With Phyllo Topping


A miniature pie for two, butter crust, an apple filling that is cinnamony and sweet, with phyllo and powdered sugar.

Experimenting With Gnocchi

We had a few potatoes left over from the holidays (russet), so I decided to experiment with gnocchi. Depending on how large they are and how you shape them, they can be a little dumpling with many possibilities. I decided to leave my dumplings round, with a home-made spaghetti sauce as flavoring.

Roasted vegetables accompany this meal, cauliflower, sweet-potato, carrots and yellow peppers, zucchini and mushrooms, onion and garlic - whatever I had on hand. They are tossed with olive oil, pepper, Italian herbs and roasted for a half hour.

Inspired by a Sardinian recipe for wild boar called Topini al Cinghiale, I braised a chunk of beef with carrots, celery and onion, added 'Better Than Bullion', Braggs liquid aminos, red wine, and simmered all of it until I had a nice reduction sauce that could be poured over the gnocchi. Also served with this meal: Stewed tomatoes and corn, and buckwheat groats...a very substantial wintertime meal.

One note of caution: Regardless of the variety of sauces used, whether tomato, pesto, chicken alfredo, or a hearty wild boar sauce, it is important to serve the meal right away if the gnocchi are in a sauce. They will soften if left to rest in the oven for a couple of hours - this happened to my 'wild boar' experiment. George called at the last minute, and said he'd be a few hours late for dinner! Fortunately, I reserved most of the gnocchi rather than hold them in the sauce, and they were perfect the next day.


Our weather here has been downright cold, but with brilliant sunshine. I've enjoyed the warmth of the kitchen, and have spent hours reorganizing my cookbooks and reading. I'm currently reading several novels by Sardinian writer Grazia Deledda, who received the Nobel Prize in literature in 1929. Our library has only two of her books, 'La Madre' and 'Reeds in the Wind', and one of them had to be pulled from ancient stacks down in the basement. These novels have been so interesting, with their rich atmospheric settings, the rough and spare Sardinian village life, and the effect of weather in the story telling. I could understand why the recipes fit the landscapes, the weather. I could just imagine the comfort a solitary sheep herder would feel coming home to 'Topini al Cinghiale'.

I've also enjoyed some e-mails from family living through this cold spell. Ruhiyyih mentioned driving to work out in the countryside of eastern Washington. Hoar frost covered everything, and it was like a fairyland. My sister described the deer coming into her meadow, to nibble apples she'd shaken from the tree, and little birds huddled under snowy tree limbs. She put suet and seed out for them, and the deer came by and licked up the crumbs left in the snow.

Sunday, December 06, 2009

Preparing For The Worst Case Scenario

No, it is not about walking the trail alone, as pictured here. It is about being prepared when you walk that trail!

Let me explain.
George and I wanted to go for a winter hike - it was cold out, about 35 degrees. He wanted spooky deep forest; I wanted sunlight and warmth with a little crusty snow underfoot.

Where to find the snowfall, the deep forest and the sunlight? The Pack Forest near Mt Rainier.


George wanted to stop at McDonald's for a quick breakfast first; but I suggested a more wholesome meal at home, and hastily prepared both breakfast and lunch at the same time.


I made a corn bisque for lunch, poured it into two thermoses, and made farmer's cheese on naan to go with it. This bisque is hearty, with white kidney beans, home-made pasta, and meat as flavoring.

That done, I made breakfast: Stir-fried cabbage, onion and kale; freshly made Malloreddus pasta with spaghe
tti sauce; whole-grain bread and farmer's cheese; plain yogurt with plum syrup and wild huckleberries. It was a perfect nutritious breakfast for cold weather and hiking, and all of it home-made.

Now, where to hike... George did the research, and I packed accordingly - he packs light, hoping for no mishap, and I pack quite a few items imagining the worst case scenario! (See how different we are?) This hike I packed a large metal cup that could be used to boil water if we got stranded or lost, a thermal reflective survival bag, and extra water for tea if we got cold.

In the past, when we have had some issues, it is always my emergency provisions that have come to the rescue. George has needed more water, more clothing; he forgets trailmix, sunscreen...he's even forgotten his backpack and hiking boots.

I started out with snowpants over my jeans, and six upper layers - a short-sleeve tee shirt, a long-sleeve tee shirt, a sweater with a turtle neck, a wool sweater over that, a lightweight men's wind-breaker and then a fleece men's jacket.

Three reasons to go extra-large on jackets: Better air circulation provides better warmth; if George needs a coat, he'll fit into one that I'm wearing; they are roomy enough to fit over backpacks and fanny packs, keeping you warm and your gear dry.

I've learned that one big backpack is too hard on my shoulders, so I carry all my essentials in a fanny pack and food in a backpack. That way, the weight of the shoulder pack sits on the top of my fanny pack, putting the weight on my hips rather than on my shoulders.

I've also learned that essentials, like knife, fire-start
ing materials, phone, etc. should always be strapped to the body, never taken off. If they are stashed in a jacket and that item is accidently left behind at camp, then one compromises their safety.

It was only a matter of about 20 minutes, hiking uphill, that I began peeling off layers, first the coat, then the wind-breaker, then the wool sweater. George just laughed. As I'd get cool, suddenly we'd be in the deep shadows again, going downhill. I'd have to put all that back on. Then, everything came off again in the sunlight.

Problem was, I had to carry it, first in front under my coat, then under my arm, then finally on a stick like a hobo. Everything I brought I wore, however, at one time or another.

And, the lunch? Ahhhhh, it was filling...... more photos here, in our Flickr account.

Monday, November 30, 2009

Flatbread, Whole Grain, Naan and Caramel Bun


I got my baking done before Thanksgiving.

Naan Buns and Flatbread

For months now I've made fritattas and placed them inside naan. So easy to make, using home-made yogurt to create the softness.

Poached Eggs Florentine

This unusual approach to poached eggs was fun and festive. I cut slices of white bread with a cookie cutter and fried the bread. Then I pressed the broth out of cooked Swiss chard and layered it onto the fried bread.

Poached eggs are topped with Hollandaise Sauce. The chard can have a Bechamel Sauce, but I kept it light, drizzling only the Hollandaise.

I served this with veggies and chorizo.

Homecoming - Matt and Ruhiyyih


Turkey in the tummy, warm fire in our living room, and safe in each others' arms...

Thanksgiving At The Dannells

Rue and Annie hosted Thanksgiving this year, that's dinner for eleven, not including baby Daniel.

Annie worked her shift at Starbucks, getting up at 4:00 a.m., then returned home to put together a wonderful meal.
Rue said that she started early, setting the table the day before, and getting all the decorations up - yes, they are decorated for Christmas!

Ruhiyyih and Matt drove over from the tri-cities and spent four days, visiting Matt's family as well as ours.

Little Dan-Dan, Ruhiyyih's nic-name for our grandson Daniel, was the star of the show, not including the turkey. (More photos here, in Kathy Hall's photo-stream.)

Friday, November 20, 2009

Putting Everything To Good Use

Ruhiyyih brought over three large bags of apples for table decorations at her wedding. We put an assortment of the yellow and red ones in vases. When the wedding was finished we collected all the vases, emptied the apples out, and all the apples were brought home so they would not be wasted. I got busy and did some home-canning.

Several different batches resulted in apples for crepes (a thickened brown sugar sauce); pie filling (white sugar and cinnamon with the corn starch); and slightly sweetened apples for yogurt.

I made about 16 quarts over several days. When I was finished it felt like quite an accomplishment, and I know we will thoroughly enjoy the pies, crepes and the cooked apples...but, as with EVERY canning event, it is something I say I'll never do again! Every year I find something more to can, just to save it - like this years' pickled vegetables and slaws. If people hadn't given me the food, I never would have done this. It is so labor intensive!

Often I think how women were so ready to give up this kind of thing, go into the workplace, and bring home pre-packaged quick food. Growing your own food, processing it, and serving simple meals built from scratch is a thing of the past. It is so labor intensive, so time-consuming, with hours spent in the kitchen putting food by for the winter. A few jars like mine are nothing compared to the volume prepared by women out on the farm 90 years ago.


Yesterday I watched "Food, Inc.", the film that spotlights the people who are working to reform an industry rife with monopolies, questionable interpretations of laws and subsidies, political ties and rising rates of E.coli outbreaks. The documentary explores the food industry's detrimental effect on our health and the environment. Barbara Kingsolver has taken the same position that I have, in her book "Animal, Vegetable, Mineral", that going back to the basics is worth the time and affords many long-forgotten pleasures.

I've used one of the jars of apples for apple crepes.

Open them, and you've got an omelette.


I also made several apple torts.
The crust is part almond flour, part white flour, butter, egg and water. I ate one of these tarts warm, then froze all the rest for taste thrills for coffee breaks. When Matt and Ruhiyyih drive over for Thanksgiving, I'll give them some of the pie filling, and show Ruhiyyih how to make an easy almond flour crust for tarts.

Thursday, November 19, 2009

Baked Acorn Squash With Sweet Potato Filling


Puree the sweet potatoes, add finely chopped apple, brown sugar and cinnamon, and top with pecans or walnuts. Then cut into wedges to serve.

Mushrooms from the Back Yard

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Helping In The Kitchen, Family Style

When my sister and her family were here for a few days prior to Ruhiyyih's wedding everyone hovered in the kitchen. This is Kendra, my nephew's wife, helping with preparations for lunch.

We had to bring something for a potluck lunch at Annie's and a dinner potluck at Laurel's, so all of us got busy preparing a variety of dishes. I made soup, Rahmat stirred up an east-Indian curry, and George filled in as prep-cook, chopping onions and sharpening knives. It was a blurr of activity as all of us danced around each other attending to our projects.

We steamed up the kitchen with our broths, vegetables and curry, helping each other with sudden tasks like opening cans of beans and finding spices. Had I known ahead of time, I would have soaked our own black and white beans for Rahmat's curry. But, at the last minute I raided the pantry, and he was all set.

I filled out my soup by adding these green beans, which I had canned just a month ago. My sister said my soup was good, but it was the strangest combination of corn chipotle, chorizo, previously frozen kale soup, and the green beans. It never fails to amaze me that when one is desperate to throw something together for a pot-luck, there is always a bit of this and that which comes to the rescue.

Rahmat's curry was a hit. He said he makes this for himself throughout the week. He asked for spices, so I rumaged through my cupboard (George has his spices in a rack near the stove, mine are kept in a cupboard in the dark). I located some cumin, garam masala, tumeric, and a little paunch poran. This last spice should be roasted at the end of the cooking, so that all the seeds explode and the flavor is at its peak.

It is unsettling when family come to visit. I want to cook so many things but ultimately find myself sitting and chatting and letting George do all the cooking. He is an exceptionally good cook - much better than I am. I enjoy expe
riments and exploring cultures, but he is best at the everyday fare, simple comfort foods.

I made crepes before my company arrived.

I've found that making them ahead of time is more efficient. Once filled with cherries and cream cheese, a little ricotta and powdered sugar, breakfast is ready in half the time.

While my sister and her daughter were here I showed them how to make farmer's cheese, which can be used as a type of chunky, cream or powdered cheese depending on how you handle it. We also made malloraddus, the Sardinian pasta which is rolled on a bamboo mat to create the lines. In Sardinia a malloraddus board is used, with little grooves, but one can make their own using a simp
le bamboo mat. I found several more of these at the Goodwill, and we made the grooved container for my sister.

I served bucatini rigati with shredded smoked salmon while they were here. This southern Italian spaghetti has a tiny hole throughout, like a straw, making the spaghetti larger and chewier. A similar type of pasta is made in Sardinia. The long strands are rolled out, then cut into one inch segments. A wire is then pressed onto the top of the segment and the sides are collected and rolled up over the top. The pasta then slides off the wire - I used a coat hanger wire, but even a thin bamboo skewer will work fine.

It is a time-consuming process, but very simple, and I listened to Eckhart Tolle's "Stillness Speaks" while I carefully made my pasta and set them to dry on a soft towel. The empty mind, free of thought or feeling, which he describes as an exquisite state of being, is surely fostered by the meticulous process of making one's own pasta on a quiet winter afternoon. The enthusiasm and chatter of our guests
in the kitchen was gone, and I felt a wistfulness at just how empty a kitchen can feel when the celebration is over! It is surely a grace, when little pastas settling in a dish can bring me back to life!

I let the pasta dry out for only a day, then I made a tasty meal - bucatini pasta with sauce made from vegetables from the garden. It was so good - vegetables grown in my garden, home-canned pasta sauce and farmer's cheese.

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Monday, November 16, 2009

Sardinian Flat-bread - Pane Carasau

Anthony Bourdain said of Pane Carasau, "You just can't get this in New York!", and he was right about that! You can't experience this crispy Sardinian flat-bread unless you grow the rosemary (I do), collect salt from the sea, and bake/blister this bread in an old wood-burning oven.

In Sardinia they remove the flat-bread from the oven halfway through baking and cut it in half. It is then reinserted into the oven and baked, all of which takes only a fraction of a minute. There are several women helping with the bread. One woman rolls the bread, another bakes it, and another woman cuts the bread in half separating both sides from each other. It is then baked again and flattened to press out all the bubbles. (I left the bread whole.
)

I fell in love with the process of baking Pane Carasau when I watched
this segment on Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations". The ancient garb of the women, the glowing embers of the fire, the prayers before kneading the dough, and that ancient crackle of the bread as it is broken to be used as a plate or utensil were mesmerizing. I wanted that experience, regardless of the outcome of the bread!

I mixed the two flours, part white and part semolina, and piled them into a mound on my counter, making a little well in the center.

Then I added the water and yeast, and mixed the batter into a mound so I could knead the dough.

The dough is divided into portions then rolled so thin you almost see through the dough. Don't worry if the shape is uneven as that is part of the charm of this flat-bread.

A baking stone is needed in the oven - I use an old floor tile - and the oven is set at 450 degrees. This is an extremely hot oven, and since you slide the bread onto the stone and turn it halfway through you will come to understand that an outdoor oven works best. The heat will escape the oven as you flip the bread and it will warm the kitchen.


At some point toward the end of the baking my smo
ke alarm started screeching and burping in complete exasperation. I'd no sooner get the flat-bread onto the stone, spray a bit of olive oil on top, and I'd have to close the oven door and grab a towel. I'd vigorously fan the alarm four feet away, and then drop the towel and grab my oven mitts. I felt almost like a lunatic, carried away in a frenzy of imagination and joy. The beautiful Pane Carasau, called the music bread because of its crackle as you break it, had captured my heart.

"Carta de Musica", I baked round after round, then sprayed the bread again with olive oil.
I left the flat-breads whole and piled them up onto my skillet, with the pile getting higher and higher.

Much like an ornate cracker, Pane Carasau was baked for the lonely shepherds who would carry it out to their pastures. It would keep for a year and could be moistened with tomato juice to make a thin soft lasagna. An egg and anything handy from the meadow would be placed on top for breakfast. When Ruhiyyih and Matt were here, I made them this ancient Sardinian breakfast called Pane Frattau.

Sardinian cuisine is a hybrid of influences, starting with the Phoenicians, followed by Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, Moors, the Spanish, and then other Mediterranean powers. This layered culinary heritage is epitomized by the ancient Pane Carasau, a profoundly beautiful flat-bread baked for more than 2,500 years.