Monday, May 07, 2007

The Sun Lakes - Eastern Washington


Marker Five, Deep Lake, in the Sun Lakes area -- capsize here, and you'll sink down about 300 feet into a dark canyon crevice, never to see the light of day again!

It was thoughts like that which caused George and I to cancel a paddle here about three years ago. The wind was whipping up a storm, clouds churned purple overhead....and not a soul was around! I started to feel very apprehensive, that it was foolish to continue. We'd just reached marker #4 along this canyon wall when we turned around.

So, you can imagine the pleasure George and I felt, exploring Deep Lake again, this time with Taraz and Megan. It was a gorgeous weekend, with sunshine and warm temperatures, and very little wind. Perfect for camping, hiking and canoeing. We padded through this canyon, where every sound echoed off the basalt cliffs. We took turns shouting phrases, delighting in the echos. It was like the unfriendly place we once visited had suddenly become cordial, talking back to us. It was amusing and delightful.The sounds of swallows came from little rock out-cropings. They were just beginning to build their nests.

We took a long hike up to the Lenore Caves, starting early in the morning. These caves are simply amazing. They were formed during the last ice age, when catastrophic floods raged across much of eastern Washington. These floods carved the deep ravines and coolies that formed Deep Lake, and they also created the caves.

I hiked down inside one of them, to capture this image of Taraz walking along the rim.

It was here that George and I turned back from the hike. Taraz and Megan hiked up to the top of that distant rocky mass, culling through sage and tons of rocky scree to get to the top. George and I did not want to risk the hazards coming down. We already had as much of a hike as we could muster.

This was taken at the beginning of the climb. We packed plenty of water, trail-mix, fruit, and some sandwiches. I packed some Tootsie Pops, so my mouth wouldn't get so dry on the climb upwards.

Over the weekend we canoed three lakes - Lake Lenore, Deep Lake, and Dry Falls Lake. Dry Falls, was in a dramatic basin, carved out thousands of years ago. The rim is 400 feet high, and the walls about four miles wide. The area is an oasis of the coulee country, part of the Grand Coulee, a rocky, shrub-steppe canyon bounded by spectacular basalt cliffs and talus slopes. A series of of alkaline lakes fill this coulee including Dry Falls Lake.

We paddled along the shoreline, then Taraz and I scurried up a rocky cliff. We managed to get to the top. When we looked down across the valley, we noticed a large coyote about two hundred feet from us on the bluff, watching us. As we got closer, it trotted away.

This was the 'put-in point' at Deep Lake -- cottonwood seeds were floating down from the trees, dotting the water with fluff. It was very magical, something I recall seeing in that movie, "Legend", with Tom Cruise. The seeds floated down so softly, and with the slightest breeze they'd swirl around on the ground.

This was our campsite at the Sun Lake Recreational Area - about a four hour drive from our home. Not too many tourists are camping yet, which made for a very quiet evening. Come summertime, this place will be packed with campers. Megan made dinner for all of us, a rich soup with cheese, macaroni and vegetables, and served with sprouted-grain bread. We turned in early, and listened to the sounds of mourning doves, owls, and wood- peckers. In the middle of the night I opened the tent flap and looked out at the brilliant stars. It was so peaceful.

The next morning a flock of seagulls awoke us at dawn. They were ready for breakfast -- someone had been feeding them over the years, so they stayed here. We sat with coffee, Megan made oatmeal, then I cooked some eggs and toast for breakfast. Later, we broke camp and went on our hike and paddle, which consumed the entire day.
We were pretty tired by the end of this paddle, but very happy that all of us accomplished our goals. Taraz and Megan are wonderful canoeing partners. It was delightful listening to their chatter as they marveled at the sights. George and I thoroughly enjoyed the exploring, the camping, and the companionship. We've had a lot of camping trips over the years, but the favorite ones are always those that we spend with our family or friends. They make it special, in so many ways.