Wednesday, April 30, 2008

γαλακτομπούρεκο: Custard-filled Phyllo Pastry


This is γαλακτομπούρεκο, a custard-filled phyllo pastry. It is a slight modification of the phyllo pastry that is so popular in Greece as it has a 'puff pastry' for the bottom layer. Zesty orange rinds are in the custard filling and honey and powdered sugar grace the top.

When I first started working with phyllo dough, I experimented also with 'puff pastry', a simple type of pastry characterized by various layers of dough spread with butter. The bottom layer of my pastries would be 'puff pastry' and the top would be flakey phyllo sheets I'd drench with honey and powdered sugar. The combination of the two are to my liking, one more substantial (flaky)and the other light as a feather (crisp).

I made this Deep-Dish Apple Pie using a puff pastry crust and a phyllo top. To make sure that the crust would stand upright, I used this small hinged baking pan. (Mistake: pouring honey over the phyllo toping BEFORE it was baked, rather than after. Those burnt pieces had to be removed.)

Puff pastry is an interesting delicacy because it tastes like a delicacy from a fine restaurant. The Italian dessert Sfogliatelle Napoletane has a crust similar to these Apple-Cinnamon Bear Claws.

When I make Sfogliatelle I reserve half of the vanilla custard filling and make Miniature Muffins with it, adding more orange zest strands and chopped pecans. I freeze these little muffins, and take several out after a meal - they are bite size, and are intensely flavorful.

To make puff pastry, you will need the basic ingredient called a puff paste, a dough that is spread with butter and is heavenly to work with as it is so light. The puff paste must be repeatedly rolled out and folded as thin as possible, then folded over and over into rectangles. I spread the melted butter with a brush over every layer. That way when it bakes, the layers will turn brown.

Rolling out and folding puff pastry is easy, but making puff pastry requires a lot of time. You have to make sure that the dough is stored at a cool temperature. (I store it in the refrigerator while I make the custard or fruit filling. ) To simplify the process, I purchase ready-made phyllo sheets in the frozen food section of our market and use them in stages, careful to keep all the layers moist under a towel.

Some people mistake puff pastry for phyllo pastry. There is a difference - puff pastry is made with a large amount of butter, salt, water and flour. When baked the product becomes flaky. Phyllo dough uses only a little amount of oil, water and flour. When you bake phyllo dough, it is more crispy than flaky. I made an Orange-Pecan Tart on Monday that has a puff pastry bottom, a filling of candied orange peel, pecans, shredded chocolate, ricotta, and dried espresso powder. It is a perfect dessert for George, as it isn't too sweet.

These pastry doughs are versatile and can be used for main dishes as well as desserts. I've made a puff-pastry biscuit pie filled with spinach, leeks and ricotta, then topped it with phyllo shards. Both combinations together are my favorite as I like crispy and flaky together. It offers something substantial yet visually inviting.