Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Hiking In Glacier Park - Montana

Twenty years ago this month I left the exquisite beauty of northwestern Montana and moved to Tacoma, Washington. I'd spent five summers living near Glacier Park, one of our country's most beautiful national parks. So, I was delighted to accompany my son Rue and his family back to the Park for some hiking, and to spend time with my sister and her family for a few days.

Bonnie, shown on the left, and her husband Frank frequently hike in the Park, taking people on treks and climbs. Frank led our two major hikes, one eight mile hike through the Jewel Basin, and a 10-hour 10 mile hike along the Ridge Walk around Mt. Reynolds in Glacier.
Frank pointing out landmarks above Hidden Lake where we stopped for our lunch.

We began our day by rising at 5:30 a.m., driving into Columbia Falls for an early breakfast (steak, hashbrowns and eggs), and ordered sack lunches to go (avocado-veggie wraps and fresh fruit). It is about a 45 minute drive up to the Park, up Logan Pass along the Going to the Sun Highway. We hiked the Hidden Lake Trail, then veered over to the Ridge Trail along Mt. Reynolds. This is rugged tundra with exquisite vista.

The trails can become quite narrow in places.
Rue's wife Annie had to overcome her fear of heights as we all inched sideways along narrow portions of the trail. Best not to look 'down' along some of it, but just pretend it is a pathway in your backyard. One slip, and you'd be tumbling down thousands of feet of rubble (or at least I would be).

Bonnie and Frank know how to 'skree run' down this kind of terrain.

To get up to the Ridge Trail we had to traverse
four ice fields. All of us had to use poles to avoid slipping and falling. I hiked above this ice field, to avoid slipping and falling, although I traversed it on the way back. I was overly-cautious because I was wearing my Asics running shoes rather than my hiking boots - they performed better/longer than my hiking boots which began to hurt my feet after 6 hours on the final descent on the Jewel Basin hike. In fact, my Asics were so comfortable I jogged downhill the final mile of our descent into the Logan Pass visitors center.

We had to let these goats have the trail. There was a herd of 9 that we saw often in the Park.

We hiked over onto this long expanse of bluff, thousands of feet in elevation. From every direction the views were incredible, just beyond description. The air was so exhilarating, so fresh, and not a soul around. We'd hiked beyond the usual tourist destinations to see country that most people never see. It was phenomenal, the spiritual rejuvenation, pushing limits, and the sheer physical exertion that is required for a 10 hour hike. My calves were stiff for 2 days following our two hikes which were 'back to back' - 18 miles in 2 days!

While we were visiting Glacier Park signs were posted everywhere for a missing hiker who had gone off alone on a weekend excursion. He'd made the mistake of not planning an itinerary and telling someone of his exact destination. Helicopters were circling areas of the Park where he may possibly have had an accident. He'd been missing for 11 days.

Hiking in Glacier, as fun as it is, is a serious undertaking which requires taking every precaution. Sufficient wholesome food and water, changes of clothing for sudden weather changes (we had 5 - 6 layers), poles for traversing glaciers, good boots and gloves, emergency medical supplies, and good common sense like meeting destination deadlines in timely fashion. Turn around time - 4:00, to safely descend the mountain.

Frank cautioned all of us that the descent is the most dangerous part of the climb - muscles are weakened and tired and one's attention may not be as focused.
Bonnie and Frank 'catching their breath'.

We made sure that we had plenty of rest stops the entire trip, and we stayed close together on the trail. That is a safety strategy for protection against bear encounters (we saw only one big ole blackbear at Logan Pass, very indifferent to the people watching him.) I've posted more photos in our Flickr account.

I'll finish this post with Bonnie's fantastic Millet Pancakes - just so good, with Wild Huckleberry Syrup.
Bonnie served these with peaches and yogurt.