Monday, August 28, 2006

The Charm of Port Hadlock

When I first noticed Eileen, pictured here on the left, she was visiting with a lady friend outside of her bungalow in Port Hadlock. She was dressed in a lovely yellow sarong tied at her waist, with a black camisole and beaded necklace and earrings. While Eileen chatted with her friend, I wanderd along the main street of Port Hadlock and took some pictures, while waiting for a chance to visit with her. She had a big pair of pruning shears and was trimming the vines in front of her bungalow when I walked up and greeted her.

I was delighted to learn that she is a resident of Port Hadlock, and lives in this adorable little cabin, the first of several "Skunk Island Cottages" that are available for rent. All of these cabins can be rented by the day, week or month during the busy season, but come September, all of the cabins will offer 8-month leases, to encourage winter tenancy. I can't think of a more beautiful and idylic place to stay on Puget Sound in winter. For many years when I was working, George and I used to have a monthly 'get-away', pack up the canoe, and try to find little places like this in Oregon and southwest Washington. Off season rates were so reasonable, and we delighted in little coastal towns along the ocean. We'd stay the one night, do our canoeing, and head back home so refreshed. I told Eileen that our son is getting married in the middle of September, and I will tell him about this little cluster of cabins for a possible summertime get-away.

Eileen is also the proprietor of the Ajax Cafe, situated next to her residence. The cafe is in the old Galster House, built in the late 1800's. This quaint building was once the home of Samuel Hadlock, the founder of the community. I gave a glance at the menu, and noticed "Tom's Fisherman's Stew" - Mussels, clams, prawns, calamari, & fresh fish in a classic bouillabaisse served with crostini. I would be happy to start with that!

Although we didn't stay for lunch, because we were on our way to Oak Bay for a canoe paddle, I took a peek in the window, and noticed that tables were set for lunch. Check out the Ajax Cafe website, and note that they've got a blog entry that says, "Fellow foodies, rejoice! The food is stellar. The staff is outstanding. The atmosphere is funky/eclectic. No pretense, no nonsense; an unexpected level of cuisine. This Chef blends the freshest ingredients with remarkable skill. This is a "destination" restaurant for me now. It's worth the 85 mile drive up from Tacoma. (What's the recipe for their Sauce Bolognese? It's perfection! So simple, but oh, soooo good!) ~ "bubbabeernut" ~Tacoma.

A courtyard is out back for dining and social- izing.I noticed that they've got live music too. Deadwood Revival plays the upbeat and groovy songs on the guitar & does vocals ....The Reflections are a jazz trio that play standards from the 20's, 30's, & 40's ....and Ezekial Kelly performed last weekend on the flamenco & classical finger-style guitar.

Across the street from the Ajax Cafe and the bungalows is the Northwest Wooden Boat School. They offer classes in boatbuilding with hands-on-experience. They are the only traditional wooden boatbuilding school in the world to use and teach the distinctive methods developed in the early 1900's by Puget Sound shipwrights and master boatbuilders.

Four boats are currently under constr- uction, and a layer of dust covered everything. Even the windows had a thin layer of dust. I notice that they've got a "Gaff sloop - Nordstrom Knockabout" at the Hudson Marina, and it's for sale, about $17,000....a very pretty little vessel.

Out back, an old boat, possibly a cata- maran, sat in a weedy lot, its workdays over. It's got two hulls joined by a frame, and was a sailing vessel.

I walked down the remainder of Water Street, which is just a small open area. I was delighted to see the charm of little entrances, graced by flowers and little picket fences.
I do not recall in all my years of traveling through Montana, Idaho, Oregon or Wash- ington during our canoeing trips of ever finding such a sweet little community, so lovingly cared for. It did not have the excessive touristy look that can be the bane of serious sightseers.

As we drove away, I looked at some of the boats being repaired, boats being launched at an old harbor nearby, and thought that this is one of those rare places I've always dreamed about, where everything is the ultimate in sweetness and charm.